S(m)elling the Wild

The project S(m)elling the ‘Wild’: The Political Ecology of Arboreal Essential Oils and the Making of Olfactory Resources is a cooperative research project of the University of Bonn and the University of Cologne embedded in the research consortium “Commodifying the Wild”. It investigates the commodification processes of the so-called „wilderness“, particularly in relation to the „making“ of fragrant resources divided into two smaller work packages engaging with different aspects of the processes.

Finiteness of Natural Resources – Finding Alternatives

The growing “green consciousness” had led to a tremendous growth in natural cosmetic and perfumery products. One of the key ingredients for these products are essential oils. Their growth rate is highly impressive, with an annual increase of more than 10% the global market volume for essential oils is expected to double between 2022 and 2030. The largest proportion will be used in the cosmetics industry.

Since wild resources as a raw material for essential oils are limited by nature, their sourcing is linked to risks of overexploitation. This pressure leads, on the one hand, to the search for alternatives such as plantation cultivation or biochemical engineering and the development of synthetical substitutes. On the other hand, the eco-friendly, sustainable consumerism paradoxically drives the “selling-out” of nature, even through illicit channels.

The Political Ecology of Arboreal Essential Oils

Therefore, our goal is to explore the political ecology of arboreal essential oils in the context of the current challenges posed by global demand and the resulting implications for people and environment. While Work Package I will take a deeper look into the legal and illicit sourcing and processing of wild products, Work Package II will focus on the alternatives and expert networks building around natural fragrances.